Jean-Marc—a fourth-generation vigneron—find his way and master his craft, and today his generous, electrifying renderings of these great terroirs tend to sell out before they even reach us. In person, Jean-Marc is lively and warm; one can sense his tireless work ethic even in the nimble and speedy way in which he navigates his cellar. And, as is so often the case, his wines mirror his personality: exuberant, expressive, and bristling with energy. Jean-Marc works his domaine’s exceedingly old vines—averaging over 50 years but reaching as high as 110—without the use of chemicals, and his fermentations always begin naturally. His use of oak is thoughtful and measured—never formulaic and always tailored to each wine in each vintage—and he has an uncanny knack for employing new wood as a skilled chef employs salt: barely enough to notice, and just enough to enhance balance.